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Hayeswater Circuit |
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26th October 2024 |
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Overview |
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Ascent: |
2,738 Feet - 835 Metres |
Wainwrights: |
6, The Knott, Rampsgill Head - Kidsty Pike - High Street - Thornthwaite Crag - Gray Crag |
Weather: |
A Dull Start With Sunshine Arriving By Mid-Morning. Summit Cloud Clearing. Windy Across The Summits. Highs of 14°C Lows of 4°C Feels Like 3°C |
Parking: |
Car Park, Hartsop |
Area: |
Far Eastern |
Miles: |
8 |
Walking With: |
On My Own |
Ordnance Survey: |
OL5 |
Time Taken: |
4 Hours 10 Minutes |
Route: |
Hartsop - Hayeswater Gill - Hayeswater - The Knott - Rampsgill Head - Kidsty Pike - Straights of Riggindale - High Street - Thornthwaite Crag - Gray Crag - Hayeswater Gill - Hartsop |
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Parking Details and Map |
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Nearest Post Code: |
CA11 0NZ |
Grid Reference: |
NY 410 213 |
Notes: |
A very popular car park in the hamlet of Hartsop giving access within the heart of the east and far eastern fells just a few minutes stroll away from Brothers Water. The car park is situated at the end of a narrow lane which provides the backbone to the village. A honesty box can be found next to the gate at the far end of the car park. |
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Map and Photo Gallery |
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Cloud creeping down on Hayeswater 08:34am 4°C |
I had a rather perilous drive over Kirkstone Pass in fog so thick I could only just make out two white lines over the edge of the bonnet. After that, nothing, my main beam reflecting back made the visibility worse. It's fair to say I was glad to see The Brothers Water Inn on the other side of the pass. I turned right towards Hartsop and was surprised to find half a dozen cars already there and one more that pulled up as I was reversing my car, made seven. Even though it was only 07:45am, it wasn't such a big surprise. With my heart rate retruning to normal, I began to kit up at the side of an Audi whose occupants were just about ready to leave, and a 'morning' was shared over the roofs of the cars.
It was very quiet weather-wise, still dull as the sun hadn't risen, and with high winds forecast I kitted up in my windproof trousers but for now I would keep to a single base layer topped up with my Mountain Equipment softshell. A van pulls on the car park whose owner didn't waste any time opening the rear doors to reveal an E-mountain bike, and before I knew it, he'd opened the gate and was already overtaking the three walkers, two lads, and a girl before disappearing in the direction of Hayeswater Gill.
I joined the track alongside the gill passing dozens of sheep who scatter as I pass. Further up the lane I noticed the trio had stopped on the steep slope next to the gate, moments later I found a bag containing two pink handled Leki walking poles and I instantly knew the girl from the trio must have dropped them by accident. I picked the bag up looked up and thought 'stay there don't move' and picked it up a gear as they had a good 150 yards of slope ahead of me but I I needn't have worried because unbeknown to me one of the lads began to head back (I'm thinking he saw me pick the bag up) and within minutes we met and I handed the poles over. The lad couldn't thank me enough and we walked back up the slope together where I was also thanked again by the girl. As it turned out they were walking an extended Hayeswater Circuit which would also include Rest Dodd and Brock Crags. Before we parted I mentioned we'd probably cross paths again along the route and with that, they began their steep ascent on Gray Crag. |
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Through broken cloud, Rest Dodd appears. |
I wasn't expecting to see a new bridge over the outflow of Hayeswater Gill, with the old bridge still lying on its side just as it had when I was last here back in July. The difference being that today the outflow was flowing fast and the water was much deeper. The stepping stones were under the surface but still useable with care. The moment I put my walking pole in the water it was almost carried away such the force of flow, so I stepped back onto the bank, steadied myself, and went for it again, this time prepared, and seconds later I was standing on the opposite side of the bank, ready for the steady ascent ahead of me.
The sky looked almost petrol in colour others times dark grey with hints of blue in between. Add, a strengthening wind it looked like I had a dramatic day ahead of me. I felt great not just physically but mentally which I wasn't expecting after a shitty stressful week in work; my legs felt like they had engaged into four wheel drive and I was getting a buzz from it. |
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Cloud quickly obscuring my view again. |
I began my ascent on The Knott first by ascending from Hayeswater onto the highway that links it with Brock Crags and Angletarn Pikes. It was here that I was treated to the cold wind that the fellside had been sheltering me from. I joined the path and began my official ascent on The Knott, checking the path behind me for walkers, there wasn't any but I did see a walker wearing a bright orange jacket heading towards Brock Crags; other than that, it was just me and the sound of the rutt over the wind.
I was in my element. It wasn't a continued gurgle; in fact, the wind was so loud when I thought I heard it again I stopped second-guessing myself. By now I was climbing into a cloud, and if there were any deer around, I wouldn't be able to see them anyway, but I could definitely hear them. I stopped to add a pair of gloves, and this time I heard the distinct rutt again. The cloud cleared, and I spotted half a dozen deer on the south flank of Rest Dodd. Rutt confirmed the deer were closer than I thought using the cloud cover well. |
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Looking back on Rest Dodd and The Nab. |
The cloud came and went meaning one view was never the same just like here where I was suprised to find a splash of sunshine on The Nab's summit with clear skies beyond. Within seconds the cloud returned and the view was gone. |
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High Raise (Martindale) and Rampsgill Head from The Knott. |
With most of The Knott ascent behind me, I reached the stone wall on its north-west flank. I hadn't intended to ascend by the wall instead to continue all the way around, but seeing as it was there and I was standing in front of it, I went for it, reaching the summit five minutes later short of breath. The cloud had cleared northwards; I could even see hints of more blue sky, but behind me it looked like Mordor minus the lightening strikes. |
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More Deer are spotted at the head of Ramps Gill Head valley. |
Apologies about the grainy image but it was taken very quickly between fleeting cloud, I count two stags in this herd. |
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The valley of Ramps Gill. |
With The Nab obscured by cloud. |
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Rampsgill Head summit. |
Signs that the cloud was clearing was everywhere to see, trouble was, the wind was so strong by now I was struggling to enjoy the views. |
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Linking back up with the path as I head towards Kidsty Pike. |
This was probably the most defining moment of the day as the cloud continued to break not just over Kidsty Pike but High Street too. |
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High Street, Short Stile and Two Penny Crag from Kidsty Pike. |
The sun was still low but the cloud was breaking and in the high wind I was treated to a once in a lifetime moment. |
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Wowzers! |
I'am not often lost for words. |
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Views over the Riggindale Valley. |
So I'll let the pictures do the talking. |
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Riggindale. |
Cloud spilling over the Riggindale Valley. |
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High Street from Kidsty Pike. |
I used to say that Kidsty Pike was an awkward summit to photograph...not today. |
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High Street from Kidsty Pike. |
With the wind howling like a banshee I decided to try and get some shelter so I could enjoy the views. |
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High Street and Short Stile from Kidsty Pike. |
I dropped from the summit in what appeared to be a sheltered area nestled between grassy ledges and rock knolls. Sadly this area wasn't offering any shelter from the wind so I returned to the summit - my heart still beating out of my chest utterly amazed with the cloud dramatics. |
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High Street, Short Stile and The Straights of Riggindale. |
Cloud was beginning to obscure the sunlight plunging High Street into shadow every now and again as the sun climbed higher. |
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Leaving Kidsty Pike for High Street. |
Tearing myself away from Kidsty Pike I joined back up with the path spotting a walker crossing The Straights of Riggindale, besides the trio I'd seen earlier I still hadn't seen anyone and I couldn't help but feel sorry for those arriving later completely oblivious to the cloud dramatics over High Street and Riggindale,,,but it didn't stop there. |
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High Street, Short Stile and The Straights of Riggindale. |
The solo walker I'd seen moments earlier appeared ahead Kidsty bound and within minutes our paths crossed. He, like me was amazed with the views describing the cloud boiling over Hayeswater, if I didn't know any better I could have sworn it was Coast TV presenter Nicholas Crane minus the umbrella he always carried. Nice chap and spot on. |
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High Street. |
Taken from the top of Two Penny Crag. |
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It appears the whole of the eastern fells are now below a cloud inversion. |
Seen here from The Straights of Riggindale. |
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Views over Hayeswater towards Thornthwaite Crag. |
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Looking back on The Straights of Riggindale towards The Knott and Rampsgill Head. |
It was here I passed the trio of walkers who I'd returned the walking poles to earlier. I half guessed this would be our passing point telling them about the deer I'd seen at Ramps Gill Head and on Rest Dodd where they'd be heading after visiting Kidsty Pike and The Knott. |
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High Street summit. |
Alas, I climbed into the cloud I had been dreaming over for the last forty minutes or so and was plunged into near zero visibility and into a head wind. I snurched my way over the shoulder encountering another trio on the opposite side of the wall where a 'morning' was passed. On reaching the summit I tapped the trig point with two gloved hands before heading off in the direction of Thornthwaite Crag. |
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Thornthwaite Crag bound. |
I followed the wall, keeping it over my right shoulder, passing the familiar cairn Mardale III Bell bound. I was dying for a pee and thought about leaving the path and using the low visibility to keep me from prying eyes when, from the same direction I was thinking of going, a fell runner appeared map in hand. Despite him being off path and in low visibility, not for one minute did I think the guy was lost, noticing his map was folded over the area with a compass on top. We passed on 'you ok' disguised in the friendliest of manners meaning 'are you really ok' both replying aye good.
Guess I'm holding the pee in then. |
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Thornthwaite Crag summit. |
The visibility was so low I only noticed I was close to Thornthwaite Crag when the path began to rise, then through the gloom the summit beacon appeared, I stopped and scanned for anyone around - I couldn't see or hear anyone. After taking this one photo I left in the direction of Gray Crag. |
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Gray Crag summit cairn appears. |
Despite the low visibility I embraced the ridge walk where I passed two ladies with a cross staff/cocker spaniel, bloody beautiful she was followed by a solo lady and her collie which had saddle bags fastened to its back, all was well. Continuing I passed a couple close to the summit the woman holding her hood down for dear life - she didn't appear to be enjoying herself while I was having the time of my life. |
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Descending Gray Crag as the cloud began to break. |
I knew the cloud would break soon, trouble was it felt like I'd been walking in it for hours and my only thought was is the sun still out? I soon had my answer. |
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Descending towards Hayeswater Gill with views of Brock Crags. |
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Hartsop Dodd from the familiar ruined building. |
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Hartsop above How, Birks and St Sunday Crag as I approach Hartsop. |
With the summit well and truly behind me, I began the descent down the nose of Gray Crag, which isn't my preferred choice of descent, always opting to descend pathless on the Hayeswater side, but today I had good reason; the cloud was still breaking and views unfolded changing from minute to minute; I'd be a fool not to take advantage. I pass a solo walker who looked like he was struggling but still in good spirits as we passed with 'hi's, the path swerved right, and the steepness was soaked up by a half a dozen zigzags, then a straight run towards Hayeswater Gill. I could see the car park; it looked rammed and for a second I felt my stomach drop. Jeez, I hope Im not boxed in.
I forgot about the car park passing the derilict barn with the sheep pens beyond. I took in the views into Pasture Bottom; no camera would do them justice. Sadly, the sun was so bright that the photos I did take were ruined with sun spots, another view committed to memory. It was warm now, almost spring like as I neared the sheep pens where a dozen sheep mooched around the gated entrance. This was my chance to take in the view, perhaps a photo, but the sheep scattered, and well, I don't think I could top the views I'd already seen today. |
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